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Common Candle Mistakes and How to Fix Them
If you have landed on this page, you are most likely experiencing unexpected or undesirable results while burning your candle. Fortunately, most issues can be resolved, and here you will find guidance on how to burn your candle safely and efficiently to the very end.
The wick burned out, but the candle failed to light.
Reason: the wick is lit from the top and/or lighting has occurred in several uncertain attempts at lighting and extinguishing. The flame is far from the wax.
Comment: The wax of the candle is its fuel. To start burning, it must melt slightly so that it can be absorbed into the wick, which transports it to the flame. If you light the wick without heating the wax with the flame, the cotton wick will burn and the candle will be difficult to restore.
Solution: When lighting, hold the flame low at the base of the wick so that the wax can heat up and melt, and the wick can absorb it and ignite steadily. Hold the flame long enough for the wick to start burning on its own and steadily.
The tip of the wick burned out when relit and is now too short.
- Reason: The candle was extinguished by blowing or smothering it, instead of dipping the wick into the wax pool.
- Comment: While burning, the tip of the wick is where the wax is drawn and burned. When you blow out or smother the flame, this part of the wick is left without fuel and dries out. The next time you light it, the tip of the cotton wick burns quickly and becomes shorter.
- Solution: Light the short wick and wait for some of the wax to melt. Then extinguish the flame and remove some wax to expose about 5–6 mm (¼") of wick, which will continue to burn normally. Light the candle again. If the wick is still too short, repeat the procedure. You can gradually return the removed wax in small portions once the entire tray has melted.
The wick has broken off and is too short.
- Reason: Accidental contact or other cause.
- Comment: When burned and cooled, the wick is brittle in its black part.
- Solution: Light the short wick and wait for some of the wax to melt. Then extinguish the flame and pour out the wax to expose about 5–6 mm (¼") of wick, which will continue to burn normally. Light the candle again. If the wick is not long enough, repeat the procedure. You can gradually return the poured wax in small portions back into the candle when the entire tray has melted.
The flame is too weak, causing the candle to suffocate and go out.
- Reason: The wick is too short due to breakage, burning, or excessive shortening, or it has become flat and is drowning in wax.
- Solution:
Extinguish the candle. Pour out the wax to expose about 5–6 mm (¼") of wick, which will allow normal burning to continue. Light the candle again. If the wick is not long enough, repeat the procedure. You can gradually return the poured wax in small portions back into the candle when the entire tray has melted. If the wick has become flattened, straighten it.
The candle appears about to overflow and leak. The candle has leaked.
- Reason: The wick is too short or has become crooked, shifting the center of the flame, or there is a draft in the room.
- Solution before dripping: Extinguish the candle and allow the wax to cool. Then relight it. If the wick has become crooked, straighten it with a non-flammable object or tool. If there is a draft, move the candle to a more suitable location.
- Solution after dripping: Extinguish the candle. Use cooled wax from the dripping to plug the dripping hole. If the wick has become crooked, straighten it. If there is a draft, move the candle to a more suitable location. Light it again.
The flame is tunneling.
- Reason: The candle is used at too short intervals between lighting and extinguishing.
- Comment: Large-diameter candles are designed to burn for long periods without being extinguished because they need time to melt a wide area of the top surface. When frequently lit and extinguished, the flame only melts and burns the wax in the immediate vicinity. Repeating this process at short intervals leads to the formation of a tunnel. Unfortunately, once the tunnel becomes too deep, the candle is very difficult to restore.
- Solution for a shallow tunnel: Ensure that at least half of the flame is above the top surface and let the candle burn long enough to melt the wax evenly to the edges. This allows the flame to burn the entire top surface uniformly. If the flame begins to smother itself, pour some or all of the wax into the well and relight the candle. You can extinguish it once a wide melt pool has formed, which usually takes at least 3–4 hours.
- Solution for a deep tunnel: Carefully cut away the sides of the candle down to the base of the wick to remove the excess unburned wax. Continue to burn the candle at longer intervals.
The flame flickers, sways, stretches, or emits smoke.
- Reason: Proper burning is disrupted due to drafts, an excessively long wick, or debris in the drip tray.
- Comment: Smoking results from incomplete wax combustion and is usually accompanied by an uneven or erratic flame. Drafts in the room are the most common cause of disturbances in normal candle burning. Another frequent cause is an exposed wick or the formation of a carbon sponge during prolonged burning, which requires shortening. Debris that falls into the drip tray can act as a second wick, increasing the risk of erratic burning.
- Solution (for solid candles – pillar, decorative, etc., with a diameter over 40 mm): Push the sides of the candle together; this helps melt the wax evenly and raises the wax level in the drip tray, reducing the height of the wick. If this is not possible, shorten the wick. Move the candle away from drafts. Extinguish the candle and clean any debris from the drip tray. -
- Solution (for thinner candles, diameter less than 40 mm): Shorten the wick. Move the candle away from drafts. Extinguish the candle and clean any debris from the drip tray.
A carbon mushroom forms at the tip of the wick.
Reason: Wick too long.
Comment: Sometimes, when the wick is too long and the flame burns too strongly, carbon (soot) accumulates at the tip of the wick in the form of a mushroom. The carbon mushroom does not burn and prevents the candle from burning steadily and cleanly. It can break off and fall into the candle well. In rare cases, it can stick to the edge of the candle when it falls and cause the candle to leak.
Solution: Trim the carbon sponge with wick scissors every time it forms.
A significant amount of unburned wax remains.
Reason: External cooling of the wax. The candle holder is made of solid glass, metal, stone, or other cold material, or the ambient temperature is low.
Comment: When the candle comes into contact with a cold candle holder or at low ambient temperatures, the heat from the candle is dissipated and lost. The flame is unable to heat the wax sufficiently to melt it and maintain combustion.
Solution: Choose a candle holder made of a warmer, non-combustible material. Use an aluminum cup for tea light refills. Choose a more suitable location for the candle.
Wax on clothing, tablecloths, or other objects
Reason: Wax droplets have fallen on clothing, tablecloths, or other fabric materials, candles, and objects.
Comment: Unfortunately, not every fabric can be cleaned. Denim and synthetic fabrics have a better chance. The popular method of cleaning with an iron and paper will remove the wax but leave a permanent stain. Do not try to scrape off the wax.
Solution: Freeze the stained fabrics or objects. After freezing, the wax should come off with a little help. Freeze again if necessary and repeat.
Solution: Wash the fabrics in cold water. After washing, the wax becomes brittle and will come off. Repeat the washing if necessary.
